Salt & Straw, a popular ice cream chain, makes a move to Seattle.
The ice cream shop is now open in Ballard, but will soon be opening another location on Capitol Hill. Tyler Malek, one of the creators, shows off a few special Seattle flavors and tasty pairings.
Salt & Straw Ice Cream’s Beecher's Cheese w/ Peppercorn Toffee
By Tyler Malek
Makes about 2 pints
-A 1½-quart ice cream maker (bowl frozen for at least 12 hours)
3 cups Ice Cream Base (below)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅓ cup cracked peppercorn toffee (below)
½ cup Beecher’s Marco Polo liquid cheesecake (below)
CHURN THE ICE CREAM
Pour the ice cream base and salt into an ice cream maker and turn on the machine. Churn just until the mixture has the texture of soft serve, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the machine.
Add the peppercorn toffee pieces into the ice cream and stir until well distributed. Using the largest spoon you’ve got, transfer the ice cream mixture by the heaping spoonful into thin plastic or thick paper containers with airtight lids, drizzling thin ribbons of the liquid cheesecake in a spiral over each spoonful.
Immediately cover each container, and store upside down in the coldest part of your freezer (farthest from the door) until firm, at least 6 hours. It keeps for up to 6 months.
Ice Cream Base
Makes 3 cups
½ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons dry milk powder
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1 ⅓ cup whole milk
1 ⅓ cup heavy cream
Combine the sugar, dry milk, and xanthan gum in a small bowl and stir well.
Pour the corn syrup into a medium pot and stir in the whole milk. Add the sugar mixture and immediately whisk vigorously until smooth. Set the pot over medium heat and cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat if necessary to prevent a simmer, until the sugar has fully dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Add the cream and whisk until fully combined. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 6 hours, or for even better texture and flavor, 24 hours. It can be further stored in the fridge for up to 1 week or the freezer for up to 3 months.
Cracked Peppercorn Toffee
Makes about 3 cups crushed candies
-Candy thermometer with a clip
1 cup granulated sugar
⅓ cup light corn syrup
¼ cup water
1 stick unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, lightly crushed
1 teaspoon green peppercorns, lightly crushed
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
Line the baking sheet with parchment paper.
Combine the sugar, corn syrup, and water in a medium saucepan, and stir until all of the sugar looks wet. Set the pot over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally until the sugar has completely melted, about 3 minutes.
Continue to cook, this time covered and without stirring, until the mixture has thickened slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the butter and salt, then immediately stir until the butter has completely melted. Attach a thermometer to the side of the pan. Let the mixture simmer away until it registers 300F.
Remove the pan from the heat, and quickly but thoroughly stir in the peppercorns, doing your best to distribute the pepper throughout the sticky mixture. Quickly and thoroughly stir in the baking soda (watch it all bubble!). Immediately pour the mixture onto the lined baking sheet, then quickly use a metal spatula (an offset spatula works best) to spread the mixture to a relatively even layer that’s just under ¼-inch thick.
Let the brittle sit uncovered until it has cooled to room temperature, about 1 hour. Use your hands to break it into irregular bite-size pieces. Store in an airtight container in the freezer until ready to use as a mix-in (or eat), up to 3 months. There’s no need to defrost before using.
Beecher’s Marco Polo liquid cheesecake
Makes about 1 cup
½ cup Beecher’s Marco Polo Cheese, grated
½ cup heavy cream
⅓ cup whole milk
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
3 ea egg yolks
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
In a small saucepan, combine the cream, milk, and corn syrup. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it reaches a simmer, about 5 minutes.
In a separate bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and whisk together until the eggs yolks turn a slightly opaque color. While the cream is still hot, slowly drizzle it into the egg yolks whisking constantly. Transfer the egg custard back into the pot and cook on medium-low until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of your spoon. Remove from heat and add the grated cheese. Transfer to a blender and blend until the cheese is completely melted and mixed in. Cool and store in the fridge until ready to use or up to 1 week.