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Wrinkle creams put to the test
10:39 PM PST on Thursday, November 8, 2007
We first met former University of Washington plastic surgeon Dr. Sam Most back in May of 2006 when we asked him to conduct an informal test on some popular wrinkle creams, including Freeze 24/7, which promises instant results.
One photo caught his eye.
"There may actually be a little bit of a difference… I'm a little surprised ... don't know what to make of it. Have to look at a bunch of patients and do a study," he said.
Fast forward to 2007. Dr. Most has now moved to Stanford University, where he finally conducted that scientific study, asking 42 women to try either Freeze 24/7 pricetag:$125; LiftFusion at $140 or Nutraderm Therapeutic Lotion, a bargain at $12.
None of the women knew which product they were using. Neither did the plastic surgeons who looked at the before and after photos. The results?
"I found that there were no differences in any of the products in terms of ability to reduce wrinkles over a short time period or over a period of about seven days," said Dr. Most.
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Even though the ads for LiftFusion show dramatic before and after photos, and this product does have the Good Housekeeping seal, study results were less than impressive.
Dr. Most's advice?
"I think the best medicine for your skin is prevention. In that case what we need to talk about is protecting your skin from the harmful effects of the sun, moisturizing your skin on a daily basis in addition to protection, and cleansing your skin on a daily basis. And there are a number of different products over-the-counter that can achieve that," he said.
Including the $12 Nutraderm lotion in the study, which the women liked just as well as the expensive creams. So does anything work for wrinkles?
"There is one product that is scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles and that is the prescription cream Retin-A," said Dr. Most.
A weaker form of Retin-a called retinol is available over-the counter and has been shown in one clinical trial to reduce wrinkles.
As for all those other products, Dr. Most says ignore the promises, save your money.
The study is published in the current issue of the Archives of Facial Plastic Surgery.
Q&A with Dr. Most
1. In your study you found that the inexpensive Nutraderm lotion performed as well as the pricier creams, but if none of them work against wrinkles, why bother?
The most important issues in wrinkle reduction to take care of your skin. This would include daily cleansing, moisturizing, and use of a sunscreen, preferably SPF 15 or higher. This is important even in Seattle....remember that UV penetrates the cloud cover. Good cleansing agents might include an exfoliant, like glycolic acid (less than 10% if it's over-the-counter).
2. Is there a reason Retin-A* is available only by prescription? Any side effects?
Retin-A is the acidic form of vitamin A and is used topically to reduce aging effects on the skin. It can have significant side-effects, such as dryness, redness, irritation. This is probably one reason why it is available only by prescription.
3. Some over-the-counter creams contain retinol. Is this the same ingredient?
Retinol is another form of vitamin-A, which is less irritating to the skin. It is available over the counter. This spring a study showed that OTC products containing retinol were helpful in reducing wrinkles.
4. Anything promising on the horizon?
Probably what is most promising is the development of new delivery systems to get better skin penetration with factors that we know will or could help the skin.
5. When patients ask you what's the best way to prevent future lines and wrinkles, what do you tell them?
Sun avoidance, quit smoking, moisturize, cleanse and protect!
*Retin-A is a retinoid (generic name: tretinoin) Other brands of retinoids include Renova, Avage and Tazorac.
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