Since supping at a hosted, soft opening dinner earlier this week at Maria Hines brand new Agrodolce in Fremont, I had been thinking about the hand cut tagliarini.

The menu at chef Maria s third restaurant, which opens today, is all about Southern Italy, starting with assorted antipasti (pork loin cured in house, those fried risotto balls otherwise known as arancini, Pugliese-style burrata served alongside baby beets dressed in a citrus-honey gastrique), following by four pasta options and five main plates (Fishing Vessel St. Jude's exceptional albacore, rabbit cacciatora, grilled Anderson Ranch lamb loin, a Northwest seafood stew and chicken breast served with caponata).

Dishes are described in spare prose, basically a list of ingredients, but what leapt off the page and embedded in my carb-crazy psyche was this verbage: Pasta made with house-milled flour. Whoa! That s taking the whole farm-to-table thing to a new level.

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