The biggest San Juan island has an artsy heart, a mountain that dominates half its clam-shaped mass, and views that can’t be beat. Swim in a millionaire’s basement pool and shuck your own clams.
Where to Eat
Buck Bay Shellfish Farm
From Sea: Three generations have farmed the tidal flats of Buck Bay, where they harvest Manila and littleneck clams and Pacific oysters before purging the shellfish of sand for three days. Guests can immediately consume the slippery suckers or fresh crab at outdoor picnic tables, but know that the “U-Pluck Chickens” sign is just a joke. buckbayshellfishfarm.com
Doe Bay Cafe
From Land: The hippie ethos of remote Doe Bay Resort—naked hot tubs, 24-hour yoga studio—belies the culinary finesse of the cafe: food like plump gnocchi served with foraged ramp green cream or a Pacific Northwest version of pho made with oysters. Views are of the rocky inlet that separates the hotel’s cabins from its campsites. doebay.com/cafe-garden/doe-bay-cafe/